First name is James
Joined on August 24th of '06
Lives in Everett, WA
Local time: 06:24 PM
PM | SITE | Posts: 263

Sorry for no new updates, it has been killing me I have been stuck in bed with my back all screwed up. This surgery can't come fast enough. I have been hoping to get back out in the shop to get my motor and rear wheel centered and put in some temp spacers and try to get everything locked down.
I need to do some major cleaning on my motor, i think that is a job for one of my daughter that are always asking for money LOL.

Well I am looking at trying to get out in the shop this weekend to get some work. I will shoot some images of the bike with front and rear tires on.
Well talk to u all later.

James

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First name is James
Joined on August 24th of '06
Lives in Everett, WA
Local time: 06:24 PM
PM | SITE | Posts: 263

ok, my back was so so, so I figured I would do what ever I can to my bike. I got the spaces for the motor and bolted that down after I centered it up. Cut some temp spacers for the rear tire and that is centered up, the front well I need to get a axle and then I will get it lighted up. Did I tell you that I mounted my tires myself? Well back no problem front had a tube and well I sliced the shit out of that so I am going to take it somewhere to have a new tube and let those guys mount it. That was a real bitch and with the back so screwed up that was that last thing I did then I was not able to work out there for 2 weeks so I will let someone else deal with it this time. I need to go to the Harley shop to get the correct axle also.

I contacted Bibs about getting me a 1" axle cut so I hope he will do one for me so I can mark that off my list.

I was on another board and see this kick ass bike well noticed he is using the same shock on the seat so he game me a easy way to mount the shock so I need to make that up I hope this weekend and get some electronics mounted. I want to wire the bike and all that before I tire it down for paint to be able to run all my wires in the tubes and I don't want to be drilling on finish paint. I was able to get the coils and I guess it is called a recdifier(spelling) and someting else built into one that I will be able to use so that will save me from hunting those down.

I hope to have my rear fender next week so I am able to mount my seat so I am at a hold till I get the fender. But I will be able to make some tabs to hold electronics and small shit like that so I will be able to do that without too much pressure on my back last night put a hurting on me.

On a note on my back I have to have 2 more blocks then they are going to do surgery and they say I should feel about 85% better so by the time I have surgery I should have my bike all mocked up so after surgery I will need to do the paint and chrome.

Has anyone done nickle on their own? There is a site that I found on this site that sells kits and I would like to do all my chrome in nickel but I don't want to spend the money to buy the kit if it is just crap so let me know if you have tried it before I spend any money to get a package.

Here are three pictures I took last night,



and "Say Hello to my Little Friend" that is one cool guy,


Well if I get out there today I will give another update and maybe some more pictures. I do know sitting on the bike I will need mid controls forwards are just stretching my back all to hell either that or have pull back bars, and well sorry but I don't think so. No OCC bars for my thank you. I have some stock forward controls that I am going to try to work into mids so I will need to figure that one out also. Damn I think I am getting close then I write one of these and then I figure shit I have a ton of work left. LOL

Till next time, smokem if you got them. Oh yeah I have to quit smoking before I can have surgery so if I get bitchy in about a week you know why and I am sorry before hand LOL.

__________________
Thanks,
James Jennings
Check my site out at www.rockstardesigns.com
www.backlotchops.com
MSN Messenger:jamestj9@msn.com

Last edited by jamestj9 on 03-17-2007 at 11:01 PM

Report post | Post #47 of 117

First name is James
Joined on August 24th of '06
Lives in Everett, WA
Local time: 06:24 PM
PM | SITE | Posts: 263

I need to know how far off the tire I need to have the fender on the front and rear? I was looking for my new rear fender last week I hope it will show this week but I need to make new sides for my front fender so I was going to go to lowes or somewhere and get the plastic hose to tape to the wheel and I want to get both in one shot.

Looks like the way the doctors are dragin ass I will be able to get this bike finished ready for paint before they do my back surgery so that will be great. I have some good friends that will help if not put my bike together or do as much as I want them to do while I am down after surgery.

Now some of you that have done builds would it be better to run my wires before paint or after? I am going to try to hide as much of the wires as I can and I figure drilling the holes now would be better than after paint. Is that the way to do it?

Thanks,

Report post | Post #48 of 117

First name is Todd
Joined on March 23rd of '05
Lives in Findlay, OH
Local time: 01:24 PM
PM | Posts: 2314

What's the rubber? Metzler says that their tires will not grow at speeds live Avon and others.

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stupidity.

Report post | Post #49 of 117

First name is James
Joined on August 24th of '06
Lives in Everett, WA
Local time: 06:24 PM
PM | SITE | Posts: 263

They are both Avon tires

Report post | Post #50 of 117

First name is Dustin
Joined on December 28th of '06
Lives in eugene, OR
Local time: 10:24 AM
PM Posts: 60

I mounted my rear fender about 1/2" off my 180x60 avon. I was told this was the minimum that you would want to run.I would drill all the holes for the wiring before paint but I dont think i would run them yet.
Thats what Im going to do on mine.Im going to do a rough draft on the wiring just to fire it up before i take it apart for paint.

Does anyone know what size wire should be used when wiring a bike? where is a good place to buy wire?

Report post | Post #51 of 117

Premium Member

First name is dave
Joined on August 18th of '04
Lives in Bung Hole, LA
Local time: 12:24 PM
PM | Posts: 10183

18 gauge wire is about the norm.. you can use smaller.. i use 16 on alot of the main power feeds .. of course starter cables are much larger.. i try to use at least 10 guage to make grounds.. i build all my wire harnesses custom to each bike... you can get 3/8 th.'s & 1/2 in. shrink wrap in rolls thru jireh.. it works great for encasing multiple wires to run thru a frame or just to encase for looks.. i dont even solder much any more .. i got some super small butt connectors for various size wire from an electrical supply & use the small shrink on each connection.. often solder is recommended by some folks, but its not really the cats ass.. some think it is..i dont.. any good auto parts will have wire in various sizes in rolls.. on my personal stuff i use all black wire... i dont worry about color code.. too few wires & i know where they go..

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Last edited by DAVE on 04-08-2007 at 05:11 PM

Report post | Post #52 of 117

First name is Dave
Joined on May 6th of '04
Lives in Rockland, MA
Local time: 01:24 PM
PM | SITE | Posts: 290

I have read that for every un soldered connection it's possible to lose 1/10 of a volt.......I always solder my connectors and shrink wrap.....it's the best way to avoid vibration problems and corrosion later on down the road.......

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TigMan Chassis Design

Report post | Post #53 of 117

Site Staff

Joined on October 31st of '03
Lives in Somewhere in North East, PA
Local time: 01:24 PM
PM | SITE | Posts: 20717

quote:

Originally posted by TigMan I have read that for every un soldered connection it's possible to lose 1/10 of a volt.......I always solder my connectors and shrink wrap.....it's the best way to avoid vibration problems and corrosion later on down the road.......

I didn't know about the voltage drop for unsoldered connections. I learned something today. On the other side of the coin there is a fair share of debate over soldering VS. crimping. Interesting points from both camps.

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2008 Buell 1125R
2003 Harley Based Custom Rigid Springer Chopper
2001 Harley Davidson Screamin' Eagle Road Glide
2000 Harley Davidson Softail (Beater bike/Budget Build)
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Report post | Post #54 of 117

First name is Crusher
Joined on March 28th of '07
Lives in N.E., AL
Local time: 12:24 PM
PM Posts: 55

Fastenal had these connectors. If I remember right you crimp and use heat gun to shrink and also solders together at the same time. I think this is a pic. Could'nt take much time to look up.
http://www.fastenal.com/catalog_pages/2005/1483.pdf

Report post | Post #55 of 117

First name is James
Joined on August 24th of '06
Lives in Everett, WA
Local time: 06:24 PM
PM | SITE | Posts: 263

I think soldering is the best way to go, that way things don't come apart with the vibration that comes from hardtails and when you hide the wires I feel better knowing that it is less likely to have a connection hidden coming apart and trying to track that down on the side of the road. I used to race 1/10th RC cars and even on those you had to solder all connections or they would come apart during a race and we could tell that they would lose some power if we had connections so it takes longer but the outcome is better on the solid connection than having plugs and then you have to worry about the connection getting shit on it and not making a good connection. I have seen that more times than I can remember.

Report post | Post #56 of 117

Premium Member

Joined on September 14th of '04
Lives in Maryville, MO
Local time: 12:24 PM
PM Posts: 409

Soldering is the best way to go, but I think the discussion/argument comes from people that don't properly solder their connections. If the soldered connection is too heavy or overheated, it can be brittle and break. In that case, the crimp would be more forgiving. An improper crimp can break strands or vibrate loose so it has downsides also. I use both, depending on application, but I tend to be with Tigman in that most of my connections are soldered and heatshrinked. A lot less corrosion and loose connections. Speaking of which, if you will put a little bit of dielectric grease on your clean spade and pin connectors, they won't corrode as fast.

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Coito ergo sum

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First name is Shane
Joined on June 28th of '04
Lives in Elma, IA
Local time: 12:24 PM
PM | SITE | AIM | Posts: 1689

I've heard the arguments about soldering and don't. I choose to on anything I am working unless I can't. IE: I was a dumbass and didn't have any way to solder or something broke in the middle of somewhere.

Wanted to add though: Back when I worked in a factory making harnesses we used a heat shrink they called ES2000. It had a glue in it that melted as it ran through the machine to shrink it. I haven't looked enough since to find anything like it again but intend to when I get to wiring the KZ.

Thought about using hot glue in the shrink to do the same thing, seal and support???

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It takes hundreds of nuts to hold a car [bike] together, but it takes only one of them to scatter it all over the highway.
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Report post | Post #58 of 117

First name is James
Joined on August 24th of '06
Lives in Everett, WA
Local time: 06:24 PM
PM | SITE | Posts: 263

I am looking for some 3/8 bungs like this I need like 8 or 10 of them made.

Report post | Post #59 of 117

Premium Member

First name is dave
Joined on August 18th of '04
Lives in Bung Hole, LA
Local time: 12:24 PM
PM | Posts: 10183

yeah , i got a freind that makes these in any size & thread.. he sells them on ebay & direct.. how many you need, i'll put you in touch.. you'll have to pick from the many styles he has ..

Report post | Post #60 of 117